When the temple comes into view, after a short climb, you can't help but find it a little theatrical: perched like a lookout on the southern tip of Attica, on what Homer called the "sacred rock", it occupies an imposing site on the edge of a 60m sheer drop into the sea. Even in the midst of the crowds, you can't escape the evocative power of what was once known as the "Cape of the Columns".