At the foot of the hill leading to Vézelay basilica, a major pilgrimage site, L'Eternel caters to more earthly needs, in a bright interior. The dishes are of a modern ilk, and contain a few nods to the region (pressed gambas with Morvan ham, mango and celery). The perfect prelude to a visit to the remarkable Musée Zervos (modern art museum). Comfortable guestrooms for a stopover.