El Mercado sits in downtown Santa Ana tucked between art house theaters, modern-day galleries and much of the town's storied and Latino past. The welcoming dining room echoes its setting with well-chosen artwork, with many pieces crafted by local artists. Serving a "modern" take on Mexican food in Santa Ana is no small feat, but this kitchen delivers on flavor, composition and quality. Paper-thin slices of cucumber with chili powder and salt are shingled to create a thatch over lime-cured fresh shrimp with chopped red onion and cubes of creamy ripe avocado. Tylayuda takes a large, toasted flour tortilla, topping it with black beans, avocado puree, Oaxaca cheese and jocoque, plus a selection of meat—spicy chorizo is the perfect complement.