Bathed in a studied semi-darkness, two bars face each other around a central kitchen where the dishes are prepared under the gaze of the guests, seated on high stools at the counter. This "chic canteen" is a Western version of Japanese teppanyaki and sushi bars, with a menu that can be “tailored” into small portions and plates that boast superlative ingredients. Caviar on a soft-boiled hen’s egg and smoked salmon in puff pastry and the house staples, king crab ravioli, suckling lamb chops, Joël Robuchon's famous mashed potatoes...