The oldest house in Paris (1407) is named after a learned bourgeois, one Nicolas Flamel. Nowadays it is in the hands of owner Alan Geaam and his youthful chef Emile de France, who is successfully deploying his skills and talent gleaned in prestigious establishments of the likes of Thoumieux and Pavyllon. In a pared-back tasteful interior set off by old stones and timber rafters, premium ingredients are curated into appetising dishes in the zeitgeist: Plouguerneau crab, Baeri caviar; Racan pigeon, chard, buckwheat; confit citrus fruits in a lime jelly. Could the secret to this establishment’s long-standing success be anything to do with its uncompromising devotion to good food?