The original Baan Benjarong, in northern town Pai, was set up to champion the region’s cuisine. This Nonthaburi branch opened in 2017. The typically friendly staff all hail from the north and deliver the best of Pai as well as central Thailand dishes. Served in a quintessentially northern sweet and sour soup, the snake head fish is fried to a crispy golden-brown; the caramelised sauce on the baked pork spareribs melds dreamily with salted fish and herbs.