After rallying crowds on both coasts of the country, pizza maestro Anthony Mangieri has settled down into this airy, black-and white-tiled hall lined with canned tomatoes and eager diners. He is serious about his craft and is usually the one tending to the wood-burning oven, which yields glorious Neapolitan-style pies with fluffy edges, papery crusts and minimal toppings that hardly go beyond bubbly gumdrops of mozzarella di bufala and sweet tomato sauce. Indeed, this is a team that cannot be bothered with anything else besides pizza. There are no appetizers – unless you count marinated olives or a jar of beans – and the dessert is limited to sorbet or gelato. Reservations are tough to score, but walk-ins can always aim early for the bar.