Félix Gagnaire, a pastry chef by training and son of multi-starred Pierre Gagnaire, whose international renown needs no introduction, deserves our respect for this restaurant (open mainly at lunchtime) in the Brotteaux district. Wholesome food founded on pedigree French traditions: warm pâté en croûte; thyme-flavoured roast veal, mashed sweet potatoes with chorizo; rum and citrus fruit baba. The regulars joyfully dig into high-flying, yet heartwarming dishes oozing with respect for the region. Everything is fresh and entirely made from scratch. What’s not to like?