A beautiful horseshoe-shaped counter allows guests to see ‘behind’ the scenes at this neighbourhood restaurant with an ersatz-industrial look. Every seat has a view of the talented chefs, who also serve dishes themselves and describe their make-up with palpable pride. The surprise seasonal menu has a seafood focus, but meat dishes, like guinea fowl with pumpkin, are prepared with equal aplomb. The 10 or so courses are all delicate, balanced and skilful little creations that provide great depth of flavour and make for a memorable dining experience.