It is well worth hunting out this smart, modern bistro, slightly out of the historic centre, to sample seasonal Gallic fare, entirely made from scratch and reworked to suit today’s tastebuds, with one overriding ambition: searingly good food. Examples include Iberico pork presa coated in soy honey and coulis of courgettes. Consummate technique, gutsy flavours and sweet and sour contrasts depict this culinary score.