Panko-crusted meatballs, crab cakes with bagna cauda, pappardelle Bolognese. You could have a full dinner at this narrow hotspot in Trinity Bellwoods and not even realize that everything is meatless. Such is the charm of Jenny Coburn’s latest, plant-forward restaurant, which replaces her previous spot, Ufficio. High ceilings, exposed white brick, herringbone floors and a constantly packed dining room make for a stylish night out. House-made pasta is the prime order here, with one dish that has carried over from the previous restaurant: porcini agnolotti glossed in a sauce of butter and Parmigiano Reggiano, which can be made with vegan butter upon request. Unable to land a reservation? Walk-ins can snag a seat at the cozy, walnut-topped bar.