The veteran owner-chef has devoted his life to tonkatsu pork cutlets. As he fries pork loin and tenderloin, he concentrates on the changing colour of the coatings and the hiss of oil in the copper pot. Cabbage is chopped by hand as the pork sizzles. Deft, precise movements calculated with the final result in mind fill guests with anticipation. This is craftsmanship learned the old-fashioned way, through patient repetition of the master’s lessons. Bookings are accepted for weekday evenings.