Yoshiaki Tsuji’s food service reveres the classics. Food is arranged on antique dishes, including plenty of appetiser platters to celebrate the seasons. A light touch with the seasonings shows respect for ingredients. An appearance of rustic, tea-house simplicity sets the heart at ease, with adze-hewn ceilings, cypress counters, carefully finished earthen walls, private rooms with inner gardens, and its basement location put to good use.