This ambitious, idiosyncratic operation is in a world of its own. Set in a striking, moody warehouse, the expansive restaurant channels an "eco-chic" vibe calibrated to match a sustainable cuisine that reflects Chef Mads Refslund’s Nordic pedigree. Diners opt between a shorter "Market Menu," where they select from a list of ingredients, each representing an individual dish, or leave things in the kitchen's hands with the "Field Guide Menu," a surprise tasting. From Spanish mackerel and lobster to game like squab and duck, products are of singular quality and are regularly sourced from nearby regions. Simpler is often better here, as in the case of grilled mushrooms with black garlic or a thrilling dessert of goat cheese yogurt with carrot granita.