The window of this hip eatery extends an enticing invitation to step inside and the interior lives up to its promises with tightly packed tables and lashings of distinctive character. The chef has a weakness for veggies and seafood and enjoys surprising us with unexpected pairings and intriguing blends of earthy and acidic textures. He might flank a generous piece of brill with fermented tomatoes and salsifies or an exquisite sauce made out of brill bones and a meaty jus. Big-boned food in tune with the seasons.